In Puerto Rico’s lush Naranjito region, Hacienda Terruño JS stands as a testament to the island’s burgeoning cacao industry. This 9-acre farm is operated by Jorge Morales, a retired USDA Forest Service librarian. At 63, Morales is part of a vibrant community of cacao farmers reviving traditional practices and sustainability.
Resurgence of Puerto Rican Cacao Farmers
Since 2016, Puerto Rico’s cacao production has soared by over 3,400%, according to Chocolate Cortés. Many farmers are shifting their focus from large-scale production to local markets, emphasizing unique flavors and sustainable practices. They cultivate specialty-grade cacao, perfect for boutique chocolate makers looking to create rich, flavorful bars.
Farmers take pride in overseeing each stage of production—from planting to harvesting and fermenting. They experiment with flavors, combining cacao with ingredients like passion fruit, rum, and tropical spices. This hands-on approach draws interest from chocolate enthusiasts, chefs, and tourists eager to visit these farms.
Jorge Morales: A Journey into Cacao
Morales leads tours at his farm, where visitors experience the transformation of cacao from bean to chocolate. His brand, Tanibe, specializes in producing 60% to 100% dark chocolate. His tours culminate in a cacao ceremony, featuring hot chocolate prepared by his wife.
The journey into cacao farming began unexpectedly for Morales. Seeking a new passion post-retirement, he began grafting trees after witnessing their beauty at a local nursery. His efforts were tied to a significant project in collaboration with the USDA Tropical Agriculture Research Station and Chocolate Cortés, which aimed to cultivate 10,000 cacao trees.
Award-Winning Cacao
In 2023, Morales received international recognition, placing among the top 50 cacao producers globally at the Cacao of Excellence Global Awards. His meticulous selection process of cacao beans earned him a silver medal. Another Puerto Rican chocolatier, David Valentín-Bayón, won the gold medal. Morales expresses pride in showcasing Puerto Rico’s fine cacao on the world stage.
Celebrating Cacao: Blessie Casul’s Journey
Another notable figure in the cacao revival is Blessie Casul, owner of Ferangi Chocolat in Old San Juan. After her children left home, she pursued her love for chocolate, which was sparked during a trip to Trinidad and Tobago. Over the past decade, Casul has become a certified cacao sommelier and master chocolatier.
Her creations include dark chocolate brownies and unique pastries that highlight local cacao. “Cacao brings joy,” she says, reflecting on her unexpected journey from an empty nest to becoming a chocolatier.
Puerto Rico’s Cacao Heritage
The story of cacao in Puerto Rico is steeped in history, tracing back hundreds of years. According to Christian Vargas García, the lead curator at the USDA Tropical Agriculture Research Station, cacao cultivation in Puerto Rico dates back to the 1700s. The indigenous Taíno people revered cacao, using it not only for nourishment but also in ceremonial rituals.
Contemporary farmers like Virgen Torres Gómez, who runs Cacao La PruVite, are carrying on this ancestral legacy. She recalls gathering with family over hot chocolate, a tradition that continues to keep the spirit of cacao alive in Puerto Rico.
Visiting Puerto Rico’s Cacao Experiences
For those interested in exploring Puerto Rico’s cacao culture, several farms and chocolatiers offer immersive experiences:
- Chocobar Cortés: A chocolate restaurant in Old San Juan with various chocolate dishes.
- Hacienda Jeanmarie Chocolat: A cornerstone of the cacao revival featuring bean-to-bar chocolate.
- The Love is Sweet: A bakery focusing on chocolate-centric pastries.
- Hacienda Chocolat: A woman-owned farm and chocolaterie providing unique chocolate experiences.
This renaissance in cacao farming not only honors Puerto Rico’s rich history but also positions the island as a serious contender in the global chocolate market.
