Calvin Klein’s latest fashion showcase, under the direction of Veronica Leoni, has sparked a debate about its relevance in contemporary fashion. Leoni aims to redefine the brand by exploring themes like “the cult of the body” and “hedonistic elegance,” inspired by the iconic styles of Calvin Klein’s late seventies and early eighties collections.
Creative Direction and Collection Overview
Leoni’s task is challenging, especially after the brand paused its collection line following Raf Simons’ departure. Her recent collection debuted on a circular runway at the Shed in Hudson Yards, but the reception was mixed. Critics noted that the designs appeared overly complicated and lacked a cohesive excitement.
Design Highlights
- A range of sleeveless suits for both men and women, marked by slim cuts.
- Experimental silhouettes, including blocky designs and garments featuring oversized sleeves.
- Attention to detail, as seen in a work jacket layered with an unconventional collar.
- Sack dresses that drew comparisons to previous designs from competitors like Prada.
Industry Comparisons
The ongoing trend of drowning the body in fabric represents a shift away from cleaner silhouettes. Designers like Marc Jacobs and Prada have embraced a leaner aesthetic in their recent collections, leaving Leoni’s approach feeling somewhat out of step.
Spotlight on Other Designers
Sergio Hudson marked his 10th anniversary with a show that featured well-tailored pantsuits and vibrant colors, showcasing a stronger sense of glamour compared to Leoni’s collection.
Maria McManus also stood out with a collection that balanced volume with natural shapes, highlighting thoughtful cuts and sustainable materials.
Fforme and a New Direction
Frances Howie, of Fforme, delved into minimalist American styles, presenting a collection that featured expert tailoring and innovative fabrics. However, some designs overwhelmed the body, raising questions about wearability.
Conclusion
As Calvin Klein seeks to redefine itself under Leoni’s leadership, it faces significant challenges. With shifting trends in the fashion landscape, the brand must find a unique voice that resonates with today’s audience while honoring its storied past.
