Saul Zabar, a key figure behind the renowned Zabar’s delicatessen, passed away on October 7 at the age of 97. His legacy includes transforming a small grocery store on New York’s Upper West Side into an iconic food destination known for its whitefish and specialty foods.
The War at Zabar’s: A Fractured Partnership
The story of Zabar’s is not solely about its culinary offerings; it encapsulates the tumultuous relationships of its partners. The delicate balance among Saul Zabar, his brother Stanley, and their business partner Murray Klein came under scrutiny as internal disputes escalated.
- Saul Zabar: One-third owner, known for his meticulous standards in smoked fish.
- Stanley Zabar: Absent for months, reportedly unhappy over family management changes.
- Murray Klein: The force behind Zabar’s expansion, actively seeking to enforce buyout terms through legal action.
The rift among the partners intensified this year due to two pivotal events. Murray Klein filed a lawsuit demanding $6 million for his share or the right to buy the remaining partners’ shares for $12 million. This legal action reflects deeper issues within the partnership, further fueled by the departure of Klein’s nephew David, who was seen as the potential future of the business.
Financial Success and Cultural Impact
Despite the ongoing strife, Zabar’s continues to thrive, generating approximately $39 million in annual sales. The store has established itself as an indispensable cultural landmark on the Upper West Side, attracting tourists and locals alike.
Sales statistics highlight Zabar’s extensive offerings:
- 1,500 pounds of coffee sold weekly.
- 1,400 pounds of Italian Parmesan cheese processed weekly.
- The highest U.S. smoked fish sales recorded at Zabar’s.
The Delicatessen’s Unique Character
Beyond financial metrics, Zabar’s serves as a unique social hub. Saturday mornings see a bustling atmosphere, with diverse interactions happening across its various counters. The blend of culinary tradition with contemporary needs has made Zabar’s not just a store, but a community institution.
A notable innovation introduced by David Zabar was the addition of pre-packaged foods, catering to the busy schedules of modern customers while retaining traditional service options.
The Future of Zabar’s
As the partners grapple with personal conflicts and legal disputes, questions persist about the longevity of Zabar’s legacy. The store’s current state raises concerns regarding succession and continuity. How will Zabar’s maintain its unique identity if its founding members cannot resolve their issues?
With the Grim Reaper metaphorically looming over the partners, it remains uncertain whether Zabar’s will continue to flourish or if it will fade into obscurity. The community’s connection to this beloved delicatessen reflects a deep-rooted love for its offerings and the cultural identity it represents.
