The recent Met Gala coincided with a fascinating exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, titled “Costume Art.” An underlying controversy has emerged regarding the authorship of a dress featured in the exhibit, Corpus Nervina 0.0. This dress has sparked discussions primarily between British sculptor Anouska Samms and New York-based designer Yoav Hadari.
Controversy Surrounding ‘Hair Dress’ Attribution
Anouska Samms revealed on Instagram that she contributed to the creation of Corpus Nervina 0.0, which was attributed solely to Hadari. Samms claims credits for her work, especially for their prior collaboration on a design called Hair Dress in 2023. This collaboration took place during their residency at the Sarabande Foundation.
Timeline of Events
- May 11, 2023: Samms learns about Corpus Nervina 0.0’s inclusion in the exhibition after being tagged in an Instagram post.
- 2023: Samms and Hadari collaborate on the Hair Dress.
- October 2023: Detailed collaboration agreement signed, granting Samms ownership of the fabric’s intellectual property.
Upon receiving notification of the exhibit’s premiere, Samms expressed shock. She reported that Hadari had been present alongside the dress at the exhibit opening without acknowledging her contribution. Prior to their collaboration, Hadari visited Samms’s studio and noted her artwork, Big Mother, which incorporates hair as a primary material.
Disputed Intellectual Property and Artistic Claims
In their agreement, Hadari and Samms had clarified that Samms held intellectual property rights over the textile used. Despite this, the two soon faced disagreements regarding acknowledgment and credit within the Met. Samms proactively contacted the museum’s lead curator, Andrew Bolton, to assert her rights and ensure recognition in the exhibit.
Samms’s lawyer highlighted that Hadari’s apprehensions regarding the museum’s actions caused him to withdraw the Hair Dress from the exhibition and replace it with other designs. While Hadari acknowledged the inspiration drawn from their collaboration, he maintained that Corpus Nervina 0.0 was developed independently, using a different set of materials that did not include Samms’s fabric.
Statements and Mutual Claims
In statements exchanged via email, both artists expressed their perspectives on the situation. Samms indicated that she sought acknowledgment for her contributions and compensation, while Hadari contended that he independently developed the dress’s design and construction.
In the ongoing dialogue surrounding this controversy, Samms emphasized that her intentions were not to undermine Hadari but rather to secure her rightful credit. The Metropolitan Museum of Art has refrained from making public comments on the dispute, leaving the resolution to the artists involved.
The situation continues to unfold, spotlighting the complexities of collaboration in the artistic world and the quest for recognition in high-profile exhibitions like those at El-Balad.
